The Oily Skin Paradox

Why your skin is both greasy and dehydrated

(and how to fix it)

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The Science Behind the Paradox

Our skin is made up of three layers [1] [2]:

• Epidermis: the outer layer that dries out easily and can get itchy

• Dermis: where oil glands live to produce sebum (skin’s natural oil)

• Fat layer: packed with blood vessels, sitting right above our muscles

When your skin is oily, it means you’re producing more sebum than your skin needs. When your skin is dehydrated, it’s missing water in the epidermis.

Here’s where things get tricky: When both happen at once, your body produces even more oil, trying to lock in moisture that isn’t actually there. The result? A shiny, greasy surface masking skin that’s still parched underneath.

What you Should and Should not Do

First of all, avoid what makes our skin lose water to maintain a healthy barrier [3] [4]:

1. Harsh Products: cleansers with sulfates or alcohol can strip the skin’s outer layer (stratum corneum), causing a barrier breakdown by damaging the lipid matrix (ceramides, cholesterol) and increasing water loss

2. Stress Hormones: high cortisol levels weaken the skin’s barrier, making it easier for moisture to escape

3. Dry Air: low humidity speeds up the rate at which water leaves the skin

Then, avoid putting the skin into a sebum overdrive [5]:

1. Dehydration Panic: when your skin lacks water, it freaks out and pumps out extra oil to protect itself

2. Hormonal Surge: Androgens like DHT tell your oil glands to go wild and produce more sebum

3. Microbiome Imbalance: when your skin’s bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes) are out of balance, it can worsen inflammation and oiliness. Avoid sugary foods and dairy products

Find Ingredients for Balancing Oil + Quenching Thirst

1. Gentle Cleansing [6]

   Why: Avoid stripping the skin’s lipid barrier, so your body stops producing more to compensate.

   How: Use a neutral or acidic pH, sulfate-free cleanser with gentle surfactants like coco-glucoside. It cleans without drying. pH test strips are only ~$10 on Amazon!

2. Layering Moisturizers

   Humectants: Ingredients like hyaluronic acid (HA) and glycerin attract water to your skin.

   Pro Tip: Always apply HA to damp skin. On dry skin, it can pull moisture out if you don’t seal it in with a moisturizer. Use our smart analyzer here to see which ingredients in your moisturizer are humectants.

3. Barrier Repair

   Ceramides: Look for ceramide NP, cholesterol, and fatty acids. These are identical to what’s naturally produced by the skin for restoring the barrier.

   Niacinamide: A multitasker that regulates oil (clinical trials show that even 2% significantly reduces sebum [7]) and strengthens your barrier.

4. Smart Exfoliation

   Salicylic Acid (BHA): Oil-soluble and perfect for unclogging pores without dehydrating your skin.

   Pro Tip: Limit exfoliation to 2–3 times a week to avoid damaging your skin barrier.

5. Moisturize Strategically

   Lightweight Moisturizers: Look for gel or water-based formulas if your skin leans oily. If you’re dehydrated, add something richer at night, like dimethicone to seal hydration without clogging.

   Avoid Occlusives Overload: Heavy petrolatum can trap sebum (“Slugging”), so use only on driest areas. Need to check if your moisturizer has too many occlusives? Search up the ingredients here.

6. Sun Protection

   Zinc Oxide SPF: Soothing, anti-inflammatory, and protective. Look for gel-based or mattifying sunscreens.

7. Lifestyle Tweaks

   Diet: Add omega-3s (chia seeds, salmon) to reduce inflammation. Watch out for high-glycemic foods that can spike sebum production.

   Stress Management: High cortisol = more oil. Try mindfulness, yoga, or adaptogens like ashwagandha.

Still not sure what’s best? Let your skin tell you.

If there’s too much guesswork, a simpler way is to measure the skin by going beyond its surface and seeing the 3 things that really matter:

• true hydration levels (not just oiliness)

• barrier strength (so you know when it’s time to repair)

• inflammation markers (to warn you early for breakouts)

Take control of your skin health with real data. Join the waitlist now and be the first to experience Sensor2 for free!

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